Sabouru (Jimbocho)
Thinking about it, maybe I should have start the with this kissaten. I actually talked about it here, this is the place where my unconditional love for Kissaten started years ago… But it’s never too late to do it right so I’m extremely happy today to introduce this incredible and special place which stole my heart when I was just a young French girl discovering Japan for the first time. I’m still going there often when I want to recharge my batteries and enjoy the comforting feeling of a sweet memory.
Sabouru (味の珈琲屋さぼうる) Since 1955 (Showa 30) Smoking No WI-FI and no power outlets Really bustling Recommendation: cream soda, fresh strawberries juice Japanese menu Perfect for couples, alone or small group of friends (a little bit cramped for more than 3 persons) We love: atmosphere and decoration, strong taste of coffee, different colors of cream soda, large choice of snacks Special points: The big tiki and the famous red phone at the entrance, collection of writings made by previous customers on the walls Drink prices: 400-600 yen
Hidden in Jimbocho, the used bookstores district, Sabouru has a unique style, not only because of its dark but cozy atmosphere and the cute small furniture but also because of the owner, Suzuki-san, which is running his business from all of his 84 years old.
The café’s name comes from the Japanese word サボる (saboru), which means skipping school or playing truant. The place was extremely popular among students for decades; many of them made graffiti and wrote on the walls various things: usually their name with the date or their lover’s name, but also sometimes a message or a comment… I really love reading those, feeling like I was 17 again at the end of the 80’s, ready to scribble my new boyfriend’s name on the old walls…
The atmosphere here is quite unique. People are whispering that the place inspired a lot of artists and writers, seduced by the nice jumble of clocks, woodwork and african masks. The movie Shitsurakuen (Lost Paradise), telling the tragic tale of an illegitimate couple, even had few scenes being filmed there.
Over the years my kissaten’s tastes matured and I started to have a strong preference for certain aspects of retro Japanese café, especially the kitschy ones with chandelier and red velvet. From this point, the experience here is always disconcerting but still very pleasant and in a certain way relaxing. I have this little ritual, every time I’m coming around Jimbocho, I’ll stop there and enjoy a blue cream soda, as a reminiscence of my first time here.
On Saturday or on weekdays between 2pm and 4pm this place is incredibly crowded. I highly suggest you to go there on a weekday morning. It’s the perfect occasion to enjoy the cheap morning set for 500 yen (small salad, egg and small brioche-like-breads). Coffee lovers will also enjoy for sure the strong coffee of Sabouru and its indescribable bittersweet flavor.
Just next to the café you can find « Sabouru 2 », same owner but focusing more on food and also extremely popular. You just have to see how many people are queuing there everyday to get the famous Napolitan Spaghetti for 650 yen.
Don’t miss this cool spot after wandering around Jimbocho. Maybe you’ll run into me by chance there, especially on Wednesday… 🙂
Saboru (味の珈琲屋さぼうる)
Address: 1 Chome-11, Kanda Jinbōchō, Chiyoda-ku, Tokyo
(東京都千代田区神田神保町1-11)
Phone: 03-3291-8404
9:00~23:00
Closed on sunday
Exit A7 of Jimbocho train station